Showing posts with label Tomato. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tomato. Show all posts
7/14/12
Tomato Time!
Being a Landscape Designer in Santa Clarita to me means using edibles in my garden and my garden designs so I'm excited that my tomato plants (and peppers, and eggplants, and herbs) are really kickin' it. The fruits of my labor (and not much labor so far) are paying off with sweet Sungolds, salad perfect Juliettes and low acid Green Zebras to eat as I water or to bring into the house for my lucky family.
I thought that I'd put together a quick listing of tomato articles for you to peruse in case you need a little refresher or a nudge into planting another set of short seasoned varieties to extend your harvest.
So for easy reference here are a list of posts from the past that you might find timely. YES the picture at the top was taken Friday night after one of my watering sessions and NO I didn't manage to eat ALL the Sungolds in one sitting.
Hornworm Tips
Extending Your Tomato Harvest
How To Grow Tomatoes
How To Plant A Salsa Garden
If you are interested in creating a beautiful garden with me you can email me at julie@thegrassisalwaysgreener.net, call me at 661-917-3521 or click through to my website.
Labels:
Gardening,
Landscape Design,
Santa Clarita,
Southern California,
Tomato
8/4/10
Wordless Wednesday - Tomatoes

Beautiful Heirloom Tomatoes

A Tomato String of Pearls

Yellow Sausage Tomato
All of these tomatoes can be yours! Try some in your garden or if you live in SCV order some food from Dawn Walker of Dawn's Dinners and these could be in your next meal!
For more about my designs: thegrassisalwaysgreener
Labels:
August,
Dawn's Dinners,
Gardening,
Landscaping,
Tomato,
Wordless Wednesday
6/19/10
How To Plant A Salsa Garden

Schools out, the weather is warm so it’s time to create some fun for everyone. How about a fun, family friendly activity that you can do as well? Try planting a Salsa Garden!
Planting a Salsa Garden is easy, fun, and great for the Santa Clarita Valley. Hot peppers love our climate, as do tomatoes. Add some cilantro, and onions and you’ve got all the fixin’s you’ll need for excellent Salsa through out the year. Make sure to select an area of your yard that will get 6 – 8 hours of sunlight. Much more than that and you might bake your plants in SCV, so find a spot that gets a little shade in the late afternoon. If you live in a home or condo with little or no soil available, you can easily plant all of these in pots.
Here are a few varieties of peppers you might like to try:

Pepper Choices:
Habaneros
Jalapenos
Mexibell
Poblano
Your choices should be made based on your family’s preferences; you might want to plant more than one type of Pepper based on the different tastes in your circle. Select from the above and you will be sure to make everyone happy.
Tomatoes that are meaty with great flavor and not too juicy are the best for salsa. Which means that paste tomatoes are often a good choice. Try these tomato varieties for great results:

Roma
San Marzano
Black Krim
Brandywine
Beefsteak
I have found that Roma tomatoes can be a little bit inconsistent so trying one of the other plum varieties might be a best choice.
You can also add a little extra to your salsa garden, try some tomatillos! They need the about same conditions as tomatoes so popping a few into your garden will be both enjoyable and stretch you culinary talents!
I can make this even easier for you, how about a plan? This plan is based on a 3’x6’ planter bed. Make sure to support your tomatoes, and stake your peppers. I’m going to throw in a few extra herbs for you since you have enough space, and fresh herbs make everything better!
If your bed is up against a wall, put the tomatoes at the back and wire up the wall as a trellis, if you can walk around the bed, put the tomatoes in the middle. This plan shows the tomato plants in the middle. The onions are green onions (scallions)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| 3 Basil | 9 Onions | 1 Pepper | 9 Onions | 1 Pepper | 3 Basil | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| 3 Parsley | 1 Tomato | 1 Tomato | 1 Tomatillo | 1 Tomato | 1 Tomato |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| 9 Cilantro| 1 Pepper | 9 Onions | 1 Pepper | 9 Onions | 9 Cilantro |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Make sure to fertilize and water regularly, the only other thing you will need is a great salsa recipe, here is one from my good friend, Julie O!
The Salsa I make is very simple:
jalapeno peppers about 4(you can add more if you want it spicy) chopped up
tomatoes..around 5-6 chopped up
cilantro..i always use i bunch chopped up
green onion..around 4 chopped up
1 can hunt tomato sauce
salt
avocado..cubed
mix all together..& enjoy with chips

For more about my designs: thegrassisalwaysgreener
Labels:
Gardening,
How To,
Landscaping,
Salsa Garden,
Santa Clarita,
Tomato,
Vegetables
4/10/10
How To Grow Tomatoes

Today I had the pleasure of attending Tomatomania at one of my favorite nurseries, Otto & Sons in Fillmore, California. The day started out with Yoga, so I was in an excellent frame of mind. The vibe of the day was made better by the beautiful drive to Fillmore.

Once I was there I spent some time picking through the hundreds of choices of tomatoes. I bought some for me, some for clients, and some for friends. Some new varieties that I will be trying this year are Violet Jaspey Ortziu (guess why I picked that one?) and Cuore De Toro (Bull’s Heart). The Bull’s Heart is an oxheart tomato, which is bigger than a salad, but smaller than a Beefsteak and very meaty. Can’t wait to see how they turn out. Along with the new, I had to have two of my favorites Brandywine and Sungold.

While I was at Tomatomania, I was lucky enough to listen to Scott Daigre (founder of Tomatomania and owner of the fabulous but no longer in business Hortus Nursery) give a little talk about tomatoes. Here is some information that everyone could use to grow better tomatoes.

Tomatoes need 6 – 8 hours of sun; they don’t need 14 hours of hot sun to bake their roots. Keeping this in mind, you might find a whole new area of your yard that will be good for growing tomatoes. I know that I will. I think that I have been baking my tomatoes! I bet that this year I will have a bumper crop.
Amend, amend, amend! If you want fabulous tomatoes make sure that you add a lot of organic matter into your soil. Most of Cali has either clay (and alkaline) soil or decomposed granite (sandy) and both of them should be amended with plenty of organic matter.
Dig deep, plant deep - if you have a tall tomato seedling, the further you bury it in the ground the more of it can root and give you a great base for your plants.
Fertilizing - Use an organic, balanced fertilizer at planting, fertilize again five wks later (at bloom) and then again five weeks later for beefsteak varieties – or any variety that take a long time to mature. Foliar feeding is good for your tomato plants, once in a while during their development (second and/or third time) especially for container plants. The foliar feeding also allows you to rinse off your tomato leaves. In our heat and dirt, your maters will be happy.
Water- Every time you water you should soak the plant, not the soil around it. Try one cup when it is a seedling, and increase the amount of water as it grows. Don’t increase the frequency of water… just the amount. Let your plant dry out before watering again. In the ground try watering every 2-5 days. The best way to water is deeply & infrequently.
As fruit sets your plant begins not to look as good as it did when it was actively growing in size and producing leaves, it starts to yellows a little. Don't worry this is natural and don’t think that this is the time to water it more… it’s NOT! You can easily over water at this point. Don't add extra because it looks yellow! You will dilute the flavor of the tomato and could do worse.
Support:
Support tomatoes! There are many types of tomato support, pick the one that you like and use it. You will be very unhappy at harvest time if you don’t support your tomatoes from the start.
Pinching – It’s a personal decision. If you pinch the little shoots that look like a sucker you get a single leader, which is easier to support on the spirals and you will get less but bigger tomatoes. If you don’t pinch you need to use a more cage like support but you will get more tomatoes (which won’t be as big as if you pinched).
Growing in Containers -Size matters! Bigger is better. Don’t plant a tomato in an 8” pot and expect it to bear fruit. Buy pots that don’t retain heat. If you already have black pots, cover them (in burlap or an old sheet) to keep roots cool. Use a mixture of potting soil & planting mix. Not straight potting soil, it doesn’t have enough nutrients. Water for the plant not the pot. Fertilize every 10 days. You will have to water more frequently, so check your soil and water when the plants need it. Tomatoes develop 10-14 days earlier if planted in a pot. Planting in a pot is great on the coast because it add heat & therefore flexibility in where you can plant your tomatoes. The smaller fruited variety plants do better in pots.

A Few Tips:
When see lots of flowers shake the stakes & pollen will fly, pollinating the flowers. You will have more fruit set.
Pick the fruit when it's ripe. Not by color. Pick when they are a little soft. Play with your food! Touch them to see if they are ripe. Let them stay on the vines as long as you can, especially cherry tomatoes. A tomato tastes best two days before it's ready for the compost pile.
To prevent pests be sure to rotate crops or replace soil on containers. And by rotating crops I mean rotate crops by family and tomatoes are in the same family as peppers and eggplants so they have the same pests.
For more information: www.thegrassisalwaysgreener.net
Basket of tomatoes above is from my client & friend, Bernice Hall.
Labels:
Gardening,
How To,
Landscaping,
Santa Clarita,
Tomato
8/24/09
HOW TO EXTEND YOUR TOMATO HARVEST

It's that time of the year again! The cool weather tomato plants are out in the Garden Centers and it's time to plant them in Southern California.
These tomato plants are called Cool Weather or Winter tomato plants, but don't think that means that they are hardy in cold temperatures. What it actually means is that the time it takes for the fruit to develop and mature on the plant is shorter than other varieties. This means that you can fit in another whole batch of plant before it gets too cold.
I have harvested tomatoes up until Christmas some years. So take a look at the list below and then take a visit to your local garden center to see what they have available. I would suggest a NURSERY as opposed to a Big Box Store - they won't have the proper selection for you at a Big Box Store.
Champion - 70 days to maturity
Glacier - 55 days to maturity
Jetsetter - 80 days to maturity
Legend - 55 -68 days to maturity
Manitoba - 66 days to maturity
Siberia - 62 days to maturity
Stupice - 60 - 65 days to maturity & a personal favorite of mine
Taxi - 69 -80 days to maturity
Please note that these are approximated days from planting your seedling. So don't hold me to them.
Many of the plants listed above are small sized fruits so they are perfect for planting in containers! I was just at Green Thumb in Newhall, Ca. and they have at least five of these in stock now.
Throw in a few new herbs too, while you are at it! Don't forget the dill (if you can find it) to ward off those pesky hornworms.
8/23/09
HOW TO PREVENT HORNWORMS FROM DEVASTATING YOUR TOMATO PLANTS

Tomato hornworms are the larvae of a large sphinx moth that is about the size of a hummingbird. In spring the moth lays eggs on the underside of tomato leaves, and the hornworm is quite small when it first emerges. However, they are big eaters (of tomato leaves) and grow up quickly. Usually, you won’t even discover this fellow until it is large--about 2 inches long and fat! They are quite distinctive, and some of the ugliest bugs that I have ever seen! If you are finding them at this time of the year, here is how you handle them. Prevention will follow below.
Don't be afraid of the hornworms. They look more frightening than they are. They don't bite or sting, just try to look big and ferocious.
Know the signs. Droppings on and around the plants are an indication that the beasts are near, as are chewed leaves and stalks.

You can easily handpick these beasts to remove them from your tomato plant then just throw them away. I generally wear gloves while doing this. You can also pay your kids to do this, come up with a bounty and offer it to the kids. .05 to .25 per worm depending on your children’s ages and your income bracket.
You must continue to be on the look out for them, they grow rapidly and eat a lot, so they can devastate a plant in a short amount of time.

There is also a different tactic that you can take with hornworm. While handpicking hornworm, look to see if you find little white cocoons attached to its back. If you find these, the cocoon is a pupating braconid wasp, which is a garden-friendly predator.
Capture the hornworm and keep any that have this cocoon in a container, feeding them tomato leaves. In this manner you will be incubating your own pest control! The cocoons will develop into the braconid wasps.
Release the wasps into your garden! These wasps will control the hornworm population.
Preventative Measures - When the hornworm are younger and smaller they can be killed using Bt (bacillus thuringiensis) as an effective management technique. This must be sprayed on the plant when you first plant it or BEFORE you find any big hornworms.

Tips & Warnings:
Other natural predators are birds and the larvae of the green lacewing, if your garden is bird friendly you will have a built in head start.
Plant Dill – the hornworms like it and they are easier to spot when they are smaller on the dill than on your tomato plants.
Be sure to rotate your crops, tomatoes/peppers/eggplants are in the same family & have the same pests, so put these crops where last year you had lettuce or peas. The larvae of the hornworm may stay in the soil and come back in droves the next year.
If you plant in pots, either rotate the crops or simply throw out the soil and start with fresh soil each year.
If you have a bee allergy in the family the wasp solution is NOT the best option for you and your family.
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